Sunday, March 30, 2014

On Things Along the Way 14



As we’ve discovered, no place in the USA beats the winter climate of Florida. And although the Hill Country was very pleasant during the day, we did experience freezing of our water supply line one night. It has thus been of some interest to find out what it looked like 150 miles south and on the Gulf, should a cold snap be in the forecast. A short term escape would be nice to know about. The Padre Island Campground was OK ( http://www.ccrvresorts.com/features/pp.htm ) and the personnel very helpful and friendly, although the neighborhood was less inspiring. The full facilities provided an opportunity to get laundry done after more than a week without such at Canyon Lake. 

Our exploration of northern Padre Island revealed interesting fishing interests but did not excite us from a RV point of view, although Aransas Pass http://www.aransaspass.org/  proved surprisingly nice. Rounding the Bay of Corpus Christi ultimately led to the city, which appeared very dormant but attractive on a Monday http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corpus_Christi,_Texas  . Impressive buildings, homesteads and the campus of Texas A&M University at Corpus Christi to the south http://www.tamucc.edu/  , followed our lunch at one of the very few open eating establishments in town. This seemed like an entire city on Spring Break and everybody having left town together with the students! Early Saturday morning we took off on the long trek to Del Rio on the Rio Grande, across from Mexico.

Aiming for Route 44, a great deal of construction work threw us off course but we regrouped and finally headed for Alice, TX. The City of Alice was known for its large cattle industry until the discovery of oil and petroleum beneath in the 1940s which caused a slight population boom http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alice,_Texas  . However we didn’t see a sign of cattle and as we pushed on to Carrizo Springs were amazed at the gigantic ranches that stretched mile upon mile since Alice, with not a head of cattle in sight! However, evidence of oil pumping and natural gas wells abounded. 

We got gas in Carrizo Springs http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrizo_Springs,_Texas   and enjoyed sandwiches from the tail gate of the truck on an open lot into which we hauled the trailer next to the Baptist church. This was an interesting place with a century plus old church building neatly integrated with an impressive new structure. We attracted the attention of a very friendly fellow associated with the church, who explained that his presence at that time was in anticipation of a veteran’s motorcycle squad who were on their way to honor the town. The town would reciprocate with some function and we were welcome to stay for the event! We had a long way to go, still, but thankfully took advantage of restroom facilities at the church, which he made available. With a solid invitation to return some day, we departed also with advice to take route 277 via Eagle Pass, rather than 83 via Uvalde. That is exactly what we did and set out on the last 100 miles for Del Rio.

Not having reserved a campsite in Del Rio, we had called the Buzzard Roost RV Campground, which has been on our radar for years. The fellow at the other end could not accommodate us for one night but provided info on other campgrounds that might have vacancies. At the conclusion of Willem’s conversation he inquired about the accent and perked up, saying he was from Thailand and that his son was with a bank in South Africa. He also reflected on our need for only one night and suggested us pull in behind Walmart, where there are 8 RV sites. 

This was a first for us and we were surprised at the suitability of the solution. This vast pantry and supplies of any conceivable kind on our doorstep had us stock up and then readied for the night. A couple of other RV’s joined us and through the night some trucks also moved through. But beforehand, we’ve had a lovely streak meal at Rudy’s, after not having had the opportunity in New Braunfels and then had an altogether pleasant stopover without even unhooking the truck.

We had an early start the next morning and once again, were in ranch country with individual properties extending seemingly uninterrupted for miles on end. Still, hardly any cattle in sight but we occasionally saw game animals, even African antelope at a distance. Hunting, rather than cattle-raising seemed more the in-thing. Some 20 miles after passing Lake Amistad we got to a border control check point, where Fickie and Stella had to produce their passports. While they were digging those out of the trailer, Willem stirred up a conversation with the officer and learned that oil and gas extraction replaced cattle ranching over vast areas of Texas but we should see it drop off in favor of cattle and game as we go further north onto the Big Bend area. Yet further north of Interstate 10, vast oil interests dominate again. We stayed pretty much south of Interstate 10 and seemed to confirm the guy’s information in the area we covered. As we were following the Rio Grande, we came across Langtry and stopped for a break at the Judge Roy Bean Saloon and Museum. This was quite something, and perhaps the most authentic preserved relic of the Old West that one could hope to see. It is a rich source of folk lore and the inspiration for movies, books and what have you: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Bean , http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Langtry,_Texas , http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Life_and_Times_of_Judge_Roy_Bean , http://www.desertusa.com/desert-people/judge-roy-bean.html

We reached Alpine, TX in the early afternoon, after traversing increasingly drier terrain, with the last 25 miles past Marathon indicated as ‘scenic’, which it was indeed. The mountains to the south appeared inviting and it would prove a lot more scenic than what we imagined by the time we got there two days hence. The weather turned south on us temperature-wise but Friday would be a better day, so we stayed in, worked on admin and blog stuff and headed for Big Bend the next morning. 

This was an unforgettable experience because of the beauty of the scenery. We ventured into the Chisos Mountains of the Big Bend National Park for about 20 miles, then turned back and followed the Rio Grande through the   Big Bend Ranch State Park from Study Butte to Presidio and found the scenery unrivaled, to say the least. Across the river is Mexico and the scene was consistent with what one has seen in so many movies. It didn’t take long for our attention to be attracted by a turn-off, which happened to be the Small Village (Rancheria) built in 1985 as the setting for numerous films and TV series, such as The Streets of Laredo, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Streets_of_Laredo_%28TV_miniseries%29 , Rio Diablo, Gambler V: Playing for Keeps, My Maria,  Dead man’s Walk and The Journeyman.  http://lonestartravelers.com/wordpress/big-bend-ranch-state-park-lajitas-tx

The trip from Lajitas to Presidio with Route 170 was really spectacular and we were very happy not having the trailer behind us, which would have made for more difficult driving, given the sharp ups and downs.
We were still hoping to take advantage of the trailer washing facility at the campground in Alpine before leaving for Fort Davis but the cold and especially, the intense wind rendered this impossible. So we made the short hop on Saturday morning and were astounded by the beauty of the camp in the Davis Mountains outside of Fort Davis, http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/davis-mountains . This location could feature as the summer equivalent of Corpus Christi, the winter escape, should one consider settling in the Hill Country. At an elevation of 5,500 feet, the summers are great.

We had reservations for the Star Party that night at the Mc Donald Observatory http://mcdonaldobservatory.org/ and were warned to clothe warmly, which we did. There were perhaps 100 + people and the program come off best when the sky is cloudless. This turned out not to be the case, so tickets good for use within a year were offered to those who didn’t want to stay. It wasn’t for us, so we went for the indoor auditorium presentation on astronomy, which was excellent, while others went outside to peer around the clouds through the numerous telescopes at various objects, e.g. the moon, Saturn and its satellites, etc. While we were subsequently watching an excellent video presentation inside, word came that things have cleared outside, so we went out, fully experiencing the wisdom of advice on the clothing code. We got to look at various objects at varying degrees of clarity through telescopes, complementing the material covered in the presentation earlier. On looking at the moon, the attendant of one of the telescopes pointed out to Willem that dark crater marks were older than the lighter ones, upon which Willem asked about the age of the younger craters. The answer was 100 million years, to which Willem responded, ‘Oh, that was after I was born’. The fellow chuckled, saying it was the first time he heard that, to which Willem replied that it did not surprise him. This exchange amused a dozen or so other Star Partiers who all found themselves in an area of the US where prehistoric times are as alive as they possible can be, given the abundance of bones, wings and jaws unearthed in fossil form from various anthropological digs and skillfully assembled in numerous museum exhibits in life-like splendor. Current theory suggests that meteorites had something to do with their extinction, while John Knox’s (and others of similar sentiment) way of looking at things, would be consistent with human destiny having been in place before the time of the moon poundings. There is a lot we do not understand and when Jerome, of Vulgate fame, found himself at that spot, he concluded that denying the facts makes less sense than simply admitting own inadequacy at interpreting those. The Star Party was a very worthwhile excursion, having one reflect on the marvels of the universe, their complexity and experiencing the excitement of witnessing it all. We were back in camp after 11 pm. to enjoy a hot drink and hit the sack.

Stella was a bit under the weather on Sunday, so Susan and Willem set out to town and church, where they were warmly welcomed. It was Spring Break for schools in Texas and families appeared to be missing, leaving mostly the elderly. But the pastor and his young family were there and informed us a bit on the congregation. It was formed in the days of his great grandfather, who ministered there. Today his father pastors a church in Fort Stockton, 50 miles to the north. So, these folks’ roots are deep in Western Texas and their sense of calling strong.  Strange as it may seem, there was some resemblance with a large city center church we were with in South Africa, years ago. The congregation had primarily student and young professional members, which constituted a transient situation. In Texas it was the same, except for the center of gravity resting with the elderly. It turned out that people are attracted to the area, its beauty and climate for retirement. Some leave as their medical needs eventually necessitate, or they find their way to assisted living facilities elsewhere. Youngsters mostly leave for college and often do not return.

In the front of the sanctuary is an attractive wooden cross, courtesy of the company that produced the film, Dancer, Texas Population 81 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dancer,_Texas_Pop._81 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BedqQXOtWlE . The church building was made available for the filming, as well as the house immediately across the street, belonging to the lady who was sitting in the front pew. Neither of us had seen the movie but our interest was stirred and we will be looking out for it.

On Monday morning we set out on the long trek to Las Cruces, New Mexico.

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